Annabel's Pantry

Olive Oil

My friend Toto is tasting olive oil. As one of 10 olive oil tasters in Sicily he is well qualified – his family has grown olives here in Xitta on the east of the island for centuries. In the centre of their farm the most enormous olive tree stands testimony to this legacy, a vast 100-year old rambling tree with a girth that takes three to grasp. Toto lifts the cover from a small blue glass and inhales. Taking a tiny sip, he rolls the oil around his mouth, aspirating it through his teeth a few times with a series of deep hisses before spitting it out. A good oil will show balance across flavour, spiciness, a little bitterness (to offset the cloying character of the oil), sweetness and pungency.

Along with the panel tastings, olive oils must also pass chemical tests for grading. These determine the acidity level. Less than one percent is necessary for the oil to qualify as extra virgin. Oil should be stored in a cool, dark place. Best quality extra virgin olive oils will have a use by date (about 18 months from harvest) as oil, unlike wine, does not improve with age. Once a bottle is open it should be used within a month or two as oxidation speeds the breakdown in flavour and aroma and leads to rancidity. Olive is the only oil which runs freely from its fruit and can be consumed without further processing. There is no other single ingredient which offers such taste enhancing pleasure across a range of flavours and ingredients. Extra virgin can be savoured simply with a slice of country bread but it is in the salad that the dazzling complexity and flavour-enhancing qualities of a really good oil will shine. In fact, what salad would be complete without it?

Mint And Parsley Pesto

Prep	10 minutes
Makes	about 1½ cups

Purée together until smooth 1 packed cup mint leaves, 1 packed cup parsley without stalks, the finely grated zest of 1 lemon, 2 cloves garlic, peeled, ¼ cup toasted walnuts or almonds, ¼ tsp salt and ¼ cup olive oil. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper to taste. Keeps up to 2 weeks in the fridge (cover the top with a layer of oil).

From Annabel’s book, Eat Fresh: cooking through the seasons.
Photos by Aaron McLean.

TAPENADE

Makes

1 cup

1 cup stoned kalamata olives
1 clove garlic, crushed
4 anchovy fillets
1 tbsp capers
zest of ½ lemon
1/3 cup olive oil

Puree all ingredients together into a smoothish paste. Serve with crostini.

Storage: Tapenade will keep in the fridge for months.

CROSTINI
Slice a French stick. Spread on a baking tray and spray or brush with olive oil. Bake at 180°C until golden and crisp, 20 minutes. Cool and store in an airtight container. These will keep about a week and can be re-crisped in a hot oven for 5 minutes.

From Annabel’s book, Assemble: sensational food MADE SIMPLE.
Photos by Nick Tresidder.

HERB OILS

BASIL OIL

Makes

1½ cups

2 cups (60g) tightly packed basil leaves
½ tsp salt
1 cup oil, eg olive oil or grapeseed or a mix of both

Place basil leaves in a bowl and pour over boiling water to wilt. Drain at once and refresh under cold water.
Drain thoroughly and purée with salt and oil until smooth. Strain off solids through a fine sieve if desired (I don’t bother).

Storage Keep in the fridge up to 4-5 days or freeze in ice block containers.

MINT OIL

Substitute mint for basil.

ROCKET & PARSLEY OIL

In place of basil use a handful of rocket leaves – 6-8 quite large leaves – and 2 handfuls (1 packed cup) of Italian parsley, tough stems removed.

LIME CHILLI CORIANDER OIL

In place of basil use 2-3 coriander plants, roots removed, 1 small red chilli, seeded, and the zest of 1 lime. Good for Asian dishes.

From Annabel’s book, Assemble: sensational food MADE SIMPLE.
Photos by Nick Tresidder.

GREEN BEAN AND TUNA SALAD WITH EGG AND OLIVE DRESSING

Serves

2

200g green beans
220g best-quality canned tuna, drained
12-16 cherry tomatoes

EGG & OLIVE DRESSING

1 hard-boiled egg, diced
6 kalamata olives, pitted and chopped
2 tbsp chopped Italian parsley
2 tbsp lemon dijon vinaigrette (page 113)
1 tsp capers

Boil beans for 6-8 minutes. Refresh under cold water. Divide between 2 plates and top with tuna and tomatoes.
Mix dressing ingredients and spoon over salad.

FRESH TUNA SALAD

Use 300g fresh tuna steaks in place of canned tuna. Season tuna lightly with salt and pepper and sear in a hot pan for 1 minute each side. Thiny slice and divide over salad.

From Annabel’s book, Assemble: sensational food MADE SIMPLE.
Photos by Nick Tresidder.